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Prop 1 Custom encloser for all to use. On air tank Props.

Started by michilson, September 08, 2014, 01:30:46 PM

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michilson

September 08, 2014, 01:30:46 PM Last Edit: September 08, 2014, 01:38:19 PM by michilson
Hey guys I wanted to share my custom enclosures that I made for my Prop-1 Controllers.

Attached are pictures and listed below are the parts Lists.

EFX-Tek Parts

Prop-1
12V DC Power Supply
14" Extension Cable
PIR
Screws & Stand-offs Kit
(If you purchase the 2.1mm Pigtail it will make life easier than making your own)

Mouser Electronic Part # & Quantities. This is for 1 Enclosure.

QTY    MOUSER PART #            DESCRIPTION

1 -      546-1591DSFLBK -            Enclosures, Boxes, & Cases5.9 X 3.2 X 1.8 BLK
1        171-PA5521-1-E                DC Power ConnectorsDC POWER 2.1MM
2        696-SSLLX5093ID12V       Standard LEDs - Through HoleRED, 625nm Diffused, 12 VOLT
3        606-4302H5-12V              Standard LEDs - Through HoleGREEN DIFFUSED 12 VOLT
1        606-4302H3-12V              Standard LEDs - Through HoleAMBER DIFFUSED 12 VOLT
2        601-32-2036                    Modular Connectors / Ethernet Connectors SURF. MT. BOX SGL. 6 PIN IVORY (Paint Cover Black)
1        502-PC722A                     DC Power Connectors2.1MM POWER JACK
1        538-38331-8002              Jones Plugs & SocketsSKT CABLE CLAMP 2P
1        538-38331-5602              Jones Plugs & SocketsPLUG CABLE CLAMP 2P


LOWES OR Local home Improvement Store

1       10' Brown or White Extension Cord
1       3" PVC Plumbing Cap.
1       Roll Double Sided Foam Tape
1       Threaded Electrical Box Clamp
1       Roll of 6 Conductor Telephone Cable
1       Roll of Single Conductor 18 awg Wire.

Using a Power Drill our a large hole off to one side of the lid for the Threaded Electrical Connector. It was a little bigger than 1/2" drill bit be careful to not take to much.

Also Drill holes for the standoffs, LEDS, Modular Connection, and 2.1mm Power Plug.

Explanation of the Modular Connections.

The PIR uses 3 conductors to make a connection to the Prop -1 ( Black, White, Red) Using a 6 Conductor Telephone wall box Lets me carry these 3 conductors plus a Power & Ground with a single spare.

I attach the Red White and Black to the Matching lines on the Modular Connector. I also attach a Cable from the 12v+ and the Ground on the Prop 1 to the Blue and Yellow Connections. Adding a Hole in the cover and one of the Green LED's.

This indicates the Prop 1 is on and there is power at the connection.

Now mount the PIR into the Plumbing Cap and Secure the second Modular connection to the Cap. Wiring the PIR Cable the same as the Prop one. Black to Black, White to White and so on. Now at this end we do not wire anything to the Blue and Yellow just install the LED into the cover and connect it with those two colors.

If you have done this all correctly. When you plug in the Telephone Cable between the Prop - 1 and the PIR Cap you should see the Green light on the PIR CAP turn on indicating you have a good connection between the two.

Now solider up the 2.1mm Connections with the Plug be sure to leave space for the plug when your drilling the holes for the stand-offs.

Now take the Brown extension cord and cut off both ends and then cut in the middle. (This is a extra step if your not hooking these up every time) You can plug the two ends in together. However if others help you setup your haunt and plug the extension cord into 120V it will damage your controller ( HAD THIS HAPPEN) I'd suggest changing the plugs.

Solider the jones plugs onto the two halfs of the extension cords. One of the other ends connects to your Prop (12V valve, Relay, Lights) the other end gets wired into P0 on the Prop 1

The Yellow and Red LEDS are wired to P4, P5, P6

In my Program I wrote the code as follows

The Yellow LED Flashs when the Program is waiting to be triggered.

The 1st Red LED mirrors the P0 (Activation) And the Second LED indicated that the program is running.

This setup is for Air Blast Tanks. You can Add more LEDS to match your setups. Using the outputs to the props to drive the LEDS.

You will still need P5 & 6 to indicate the Waiting and Program Status.

If you have any questions on the Actual code feel free to message me about this. I like to know what the controller is doing at a glance.

Hope you all enjoy this.