RC4 setup questions

[HauntedShack]

I met Jon at HauntX and was really excited about the products. I purchased a Prop-2 and 2
RC4 boards there at the show. I'm currently using the prop2 to drive one RC4 but I'm not
getting switched outputs from the RC4. Led's illuminate on the RC4 with
the test code you supplied, but I don't get any switched output on the
AC side of the SSR's.

So now the stupid questions:
- I just drop in the SSR's to the RC4, there's no soldering needed as I
see it?
- The 3wire control from the prop2 supplies the switching power to each
SSR when connected to the "SER" spot on the RC4
- I assume each LED on the RC4 simultaneously supplies power to the SSR
to turn on (close circuit)

I'm pretty confindent I've got it setup correctly, otherwise the test
code wouldn't even be addressing the board correctly; I am seeing the
step through of each LED in sequence per the code. Baud jumper is
covering both bins, both A1 and A0 are "in".

Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated. Being fairly new to this
stuff, I could use the help and you were all very helpful at the show.
Thanks guys!

-Bob

P.S. My first project:
http://new.photos.yahoo.com/bobnshannon/album/576460762391825178

[JonnyMac]

Questions:
  -- What SSRs are you using?  (what is the part number on them)
  -- How are you connecting the AC?  (each relay, essentially, acts like a N.O. switch)

If the LEDs on the RC-4 are responding per your code then that part is fine.  If you can take a picture of your wiring and relays that will be helpful -- it will put our eyes where yours are.

[HauntedShack]

Hi Jon,
Thanks for your response.
-SSR's are those supplied in the kit: D2W203F's
-AC is shown in the photo, but even just running testing with a  multimeter off the supplied on board screw terminals shows no continuity when led's illuminate. I'd anticipate the SSR's should close in conjunction with the LED on the board. http://www.thehauntedshack.com/images/DSC00791.JPG
Any thoughts? Thanks.
-Bob

[JonnyMac]

Have you put a load (e.g. a lamp) across them?  SSRs are not quite like mechanical relays and you may be fooled by your meter.  Connect a 100w lamp to your output barrier strip and try again.

Also, you may want to lift pin 1 of the ULN that drives the P0..P7 outputs so that the ULN doesn't interfere with serial comms.  I can't tell from the photo if that ULN has been modified or not.

[livinlowe]

Well,
Not owning a RC4 I was a little dubious that you just plugged the crydom relays in. The documentation doesn't say anything about it, but the relay pages says you just plug them in! Now that's cool!

[JonnyMac]

Hey, man, we're EFX-TEK -- of course it's cool!  ;D

Joking aside, we made the RC-4 to provide a safer (nothing is perfectly safe) method of switching 120 VAC devices while minimizing pin count requirements on the Prop-1.  I've help several people control lights and hot wire fogger remote for cool effects.

[HauntedShack]

Jon,

I actually prefer the stupid mistakes to the really tough minutia. I won't try so hard next time. I ran a lamp to each SSR and voila', it worked like a charm. Thanks for the tip that it doesn't work like a standard electromagnet relay (I can tell you've read peoples' minds before). Can't wait to share my project when done. Now I'll be up all night again tidying code. Thanks again!  ;D

-Bob