Strange behavior

[davisgraveyard]

Well...I've tried just about everything.  I changed the code to pause 1000  instead of 100.  I have moved the wire to OUT2.  I have even swapped the Prop1 with another. 

I have used a ULN2003 and swaped with a ULN 2803.   

Nothing seems to work. 

FYI this is a 12VDC power door lock actuator that I am trying to power.  This device has been wired to the Prop1 for several years without any problem.  The only major change I did to this effect is remove the AP8 and amplifier with a AP16.   I changed the code to talk to the AP16 but the code to activate the solenoid has not changed.  I am using the same 2A 12VDC power supply as before.  The AP16 is not playing any audio when the solenoid code is playing.

I am not sure that this an AMP draw issue.   I have tested the solenoid with a 12VDC 30ma power supply and it powers it just fine.  This device is powered by a car battery.

[JackMan]

I have no answer as to why this solenoid worked for you before but doesn't work now but I would be very surprised if it draws less than 30mA, that's about what a single LED draws. I would try a relay to energize the solenoid and see what happens. Like I said before, if the Prop-1 is lighting an LED when the program executes then all is good on that end.

[bsnut]

I have some questions for you.
1) Are you trying to power the whole show with this 2 amp power supply? If you are, the AP-16 should be on its own power supply that it came with only. Because the AP-16 draws more than the whole show.

2) Are you trying this test with a car battery? If you are, make sure that it is fully charged at the start. Just like if this was the day of the big show. Car batteries loss their charge over time and are always in a need of being charged. A fully charged battery with the right Amp-Hours will run your show without any problems.

What you need to remember that you changed your setup from AP-8 to a AP-16. The AP-8 isn't as power hungry as the AP-16 and this problem you are having is due to not having enough amps to run your show with the old setup that you are trying to do.

In closing try running the whole show with 2 power supplies, one for the Prop-1 and the 2amp power supply that came with the AP-16 this may take care of your problem.

[bsnut]

Let me add this other point. But a meter leads on the +v and GND to see what voltage you have when the show starts. Not enough amps will cause the voltage from the power supply to drop below normal operating voltages (ie 12vdc to drop to around 9vdc and 24vdc to drop to around 20vdc) preventing power hunger devices from operating.

[davisgraveyard]

I was able to solve the problem by moving the solenoid From the PROP1 to the DC16.  I am running UV 12LED's on OUT0-6  on the DC16  so I put the solenoid on OUT9 on the 2nd bank.  I changed my for next loop to send the serial command to HIGH/LOW the DC16 and it is working perfectly just like it did before.

I am pretty sure I have a faulty ULN or Prop1.   This has been running outside for 3-4 years and even though it is in a sealed box I can see some rust on the terminals. 

FYI for the previous post.  I am not running this on a car battery.  I was just saying that the door actuator is designed to run off of a car battery.

Also the only thing I am using the AP16 for is to play a 2 second footstep foley sound.  I plays it in a loop for 7 times and then plays it for each of the 6 footsteps that also light up the UV 12LED's.   It is really overkill but I was able to remove an amplifier and the AP8 out of the box and swap them with a single AP16.  I figure I can also use it for other sounds if I wanted to.    I have the volume barely turned up since it is pretty loud.  The board is probably drawing the minimum power it needs to run.

[bsnut]

Its good to hear that you are able to get working.

One good thing that Jon did was add the relay on the AP-16, which is perfect for what you are using it for.

I am starting wonder if you have a faulty ULN myself. The way you find this out, is to set yourself up a test program to check to see if the ULN driving the connected load such an LED, lamp or a relay. You can use the Prop Trainer as well. I use a 12v lamp to test the Prop-1 ULN all the time.   

[livinlowe]

Also, if you see some rust, check the screw terminals. Maybe you've got rust that is preventing a good connection to the solenoid.
You said you swapped out the ULN, so it must not be the issue. all is good if you got it working  :D

[JackMan]

Yeah, you did say a few posts ago that you tried another Prop-1 and also tried other ULN's so it can't be just a faulty Prop-1. Anyway, glad it's working.