Archery Timer

[huntmaster]

I was about to pannic, and what shows up in the mail today?   ;D  I got my remote.

Now, I have the power supply figured out (4 AA bats) for the receiver.  How to hook this into my board?  I have a switching power terminal (connect to V+ ? ) and a pin that gets that power when signaled (connect to Out6 ? )  Am I right in my assumption?  This would give Out6 power from V+ when I hit the remote. 

[JonnyMac]

There is hint right in the listing:

' Trigger :: N.O. button input (e.g., push-button, relay, etc.)
'            -- connect N.O. contacts between P6.W and P6.R

What I would do is take one of our 14", 3-pin extension cables and cut off one end.  Connect the white and red wires to the N.O. relay contacts of the remote.  Plug the connector end into the P6 header (if you have the Trainer plugged in that's the header on top above the LEDs).

Note that our documentation clearly states that the green terminal blocks are outputs only -- you cannot monitor a relay contact from the; you must use the TTL pin headers.

You must supply power to the Prop-1 full-time for this program to work.  Remember, we wrote the code to your specifications, not ours -- and your specification was that the board powers up with the red light on and stays there until a button is pressed, then it goes into the timing cycle and runs normally unless the same button is pressed again.  You need power to monitor a button so don't interrupt this (other than with your main power switch).

[huntmaster]

ok, got it.  Instead of V+ to OUT6, I use the pins on the board, red/white on pin 6.  I didn't get a wire in the shipment, but I had some old remote control servos that had the right connectors.

I've been reading more, and see that the output pins are providing 5v.  I've got 12v relays.  I think you said something about running a jumper wire or something, and I believe you mentioned something about another chip?  The board came with another chip, but not sure of it's job.

Now, last problem - my remote is a switch.  Press it and it connects, press it again and it disconects.  Is there a way to reporgram to accomodate this?  It's like pressing and holding the button on the trainer.  It works, but that first horn is going to be rather long while I press it again to disconnect.  Not sure if it's possible, but off (button pressed) would work well for running.  If you can just mod the program above, you won't have to repost it totally.

Thanks a bunch for your help.  Without your help, this wouldn't have been possible.  I doubt I'm going for the digital like I has originally thought :D

[JackMan]

I've been reading more, and see that the output pins are providing 5v.  I've got 12v relays.

The RED on the PIN connections are 5v but you are only using this for your N.O. trigger. The R/W connect to the Normally Open dry contacts of your relay. The coil of your relay needs 12v when you turn on your remote.

[livinlowe]

I've been reading more, and see that the output pins are providing 5v.  I've got 12v relays.  I think you said something about running a jumper wire or something, and I believe you mentioned something about another chip?  The board came with another chip, but not sure of it's job.

Just connect your relays to the V+ on the ouput of the Prop-1 and the appropriate Out green terminal. The other chip is probably a ULN2003, instead of 8 outputs it has seven. Its used when you want to communicate with another board on pin 7.

[JonnyMac]

Our docs (hint, hint) will be helpful -- the "other chip" (ULN2003) is discussed in the Prop-1 Trainer documentation. 

On page 4 of the Prop-1 documentation you'll see a standard hook-up -- I wrote your program to match this.  The N.O. switch in that diagram is the N.O. relay contact output from your remote.  In the diagram it shows two valves connected; in your case you will be connecting relays (four, OUT0..OUT3) that you'll use to switch AC power to your lights and horn.