Looking to do an elevator effect

[Patrick]

I am doing an office haunt this year and I am building a fake elevator as a static prop.  It does not move, but will have a butt kicker amplifier to vibrate the floor.  There will be a small overhead light (either 120V or LED) to provide light as the patrons enter the elevator.  Elevator music would be playing.   When the door closes, a switch would be used to kill the overhead light and the music.  I am trying to simulate two things for the ride itself:

1.  A set of LED lighted "floor" numbers mounted horizontally on a panel above the patrons heads that act like a real elevator where first floor 3 lights up, goes off as floor 2 lights up, then 1 and so on into the sub basement.  I am looking at a total of 6 "floors" and as the last floor light goes out, the entire panel of lights flashes randomly and rapidly.

2.  Side lights.  I am installing a set of 6 bright rectangular floods (3 on each side stacked vertically), preferably 120V, but I can work with LED spots at 12V as well.  As the elevator is going "down", the lights would flash in sequence, i.e.  top row (both sides), then middle row then bottom row (like a chase pattern) that would repeat and get faster until they almost look like strobes to simulate going "down" faster and faster.  The entire "ride" would last only 30 seconds and at the end, the room would go dark for 10 seconds and then a red flood (either 120V or LED) would come on and a ghoul voice wishes patrons a nice day before an actor opens the exit door.  Sound effects would be provided  by either a Vmusic2 or an ap-8, I have neither at the moment.  Looking at having elevator music playing when the patrons enter the elevator and then changing to something more sinister as soon as the light goes out from when the door closes.

My question is, can a Prop-1 even do this much work?  If so, what accessories would I need?  I have the means to get a prop-2 and rc4 and all the other associated goodies, I just want to make sure that a. it can be done and b. I have everything I need to make it happen.  I have nothing right now!

To summarize:
1. Single White overhead light and elevator music playing
2. Elevator door closes, white light goes out and elevator music stops playing
3. Sinister music plays as floor numbers count down from 3 to sub-basement (6 steps) over 15 seconds
4. 6 floods light up two at a time from top to bottom then repeat in a chaser pattern for entire 30 seconds, speed increase over 30 seconds
5. End of 30 seconds, all sound effects stop, strobes and floor numbers completely off
6. 10 seconds later, red overhead light comes on, ghoul voice "have a nice day"

Appreciate any info anyone can provide!

Patrick

[JonnyMac]

I think you're going to need a Prop-2 -- for speed and for program space.  You can control the top and side lights with two RC-4 boards (you could get away with one but would have to limit your lights to 100w or less) and the floor indicators with 12v lamps from the Prop-2 (or a DC-16).

[Patrick]

Just to make sure, I will need:

1 Prop-2
2 RC-4 Boards
1 DC-16

Are there any other accessories or items for the components I should consider to make everything work together before I hit the order button?  I prefer to get everything at once.  If I decide that the side lights would be 12V, could I get away with one RC-4?

Also, I understand the RC-4 uses solid state relays. Do these switch faster then mechanical?  By the end of the "ride", the lights will need to be flashing like fast strobe lights which I did not think was possible with normal relays.

Thanks!

Patrick

[JonnyMac]

You may need to get a USB-to-Serial adapter for your PC -- don't get it locally; buy from us or from Parallax.

The best thing to do for us to help you is to decide how many IOs you need and what they are: 12vdc or 120vac -- once you commit to your IOs we can give you the best guidance.  Right now you're being a bit "squishy" and I don't want to make any incorrect assumptions that might cause you to need a second order.

[Patrick]

My preference for safety will be to do all 12V lighting, I am working on finding some high output (75,000mcd) LED's.

I would need ports for:

1 White overhead light
1 Red Overhead light
2 AP-8 or Vmusic music players (any pros or cons to either, sounds do not need to be CD quality)
6 Side Lights (two will be on at any given time)
6 Individual LED's for the floor indicators
1 Switch (N.O., closed when doors are closed)

The second music player is a new requirement, it will play the sounds effects for the buttkicker.  The amplifer for the LFE's will already be on and not need to be powered by the controller.

For maximum flexibility since this is still in flux, I would also like the capability of doing only the side lights as 120V floods,  Would need to know the max watts.  If I understand correctly, if I use two RC-4's, I can have higher wattage bulbs since one RC-4 would control the left side and another for the right side.  Even if I do not nd up using 120V, I will have other capabilities for other projects.

Thanks!

Patrick

[BigRez]

Based on your post, and from what I gather, here's what I would get:

Prop-2 Starter Kit    - Qty=1
RC-4                  - Qty=2
Crydom SSR            - Qty=8
14" Extensions        - Qty=6
Stand-off set         - Qty=1 (for Prop-2)
ULN2803               - Qty=1 ('cuz you'll modify one)
USB-to-serial adapter - Qty=1 (only if you need the USB connection)

I'd then connect things up as follows:
p2.p15=serial out to RC4.00 and RC4.01 (no ULN)
p2.p14=Door Switch in
p2.13=
p2.12=
p2.p11=music2 out (no ULN)
p2.p10=music2 in (no ULN)
p2.p9 =music1 out (no ULN)
p2.p8 =music1 in (no ULN)
p2.out7 = white overhead LED
p2.out6 = red overhead LED
p2.out5 = floor3 led
p2.out4 = floor2 led
p2.out3 = floor1 led
p2.out2 = lobby led
p2.out1 = basement led
P2.out0 = sub-basement led

rc4.00.k1=left Side Top
rc4.00.k2=left side mid
rc4.00.k3=left side bot
rc4.00.k4=(or white overhead 120v light)

rc4.01.k1=right side top
rc4.01.k2=right side mid
rc4.01.k3=right side bot
rc4.01.k4=(or red overhead 120v light)

Note that segregating the right and left side lights from each other will cause a very slight delay (9-10ms ?) because you'll first send a serial command to one RC4 and then a command to the other. See Jon's post titled How Fast Can I switch RC-4 Outputs.  But doing this allows up to a 100w bulb each.  If you decide on a single RC4, then the combined watts of both sides should not exceed 100w. (Think about it though - two 40w bulbs at the same time should be good enough in a closed box unless you want it to be super bright.)

The above also shows two music devices but you may be able to do it with one by segregating the output channels. So you could have the voice or other sounds on one channel and the other channel going to the amplifier.  This may or may not work depending on how you need the sounds played.

hope this helps =

[Patrick]

Excellent, thanks for the shopping list.  I noticed there was no AP-8 on the list.  Is there any benefit or pro/con to using an AP-8 versus a vMusic2 player?  Since EFX-Tek sells a sound device and the vMusic2 is technically a third party product, I am thinking about max compatibility.   If the AP-8 will work for my project, I would like to add it to my list when I place the order.

I assume on the output channels statement that you are talking splitting the stereo channels as two separate outputs?  That would actually work for me since the sound effects will be coming from overhead speakers like in a real elevator.

Thanks again,

Patrick

[JonnyMac]

We're out of AP-8s and the AP-16 has been slower to production than we'd hoped (the EZ-8 and some custom work bumped it back).  If you're going to use an MP3 player go with the Rogue uMP3 -- it's a little more $$ than the VMUSIC, but works so much better.  Frankly, I'm fed up with the VMUSIC and don't recommend it.

Based on your initial description it seems like one uMP3 would be fine; you can have a looping "elevator music" file that gets interrupted by your sinister music/sfx.

[Patrick]

Bigrez,

Almost hit the "buy" button, but I have one more question.  If I decide to go all LED on the side lights, would I need to get a DC-16 for the 4 extra ports I would need (2 left on prop-2) or can the RC-4 work for 12V as well?  I am testing some superbright LED spotlights which I "may" use in place of the 110V lights.  I am still getting the RC-4's and relays, but I need the ability to go LED if they end up working better.

Thanks!

Patrick

[JonnyMac]

Patrick,

At some point you'll have to settle on a design -- it may not ultimately be "the" design you end up with, but the waffling makes parts selection really trick. 

For clarification, the RC-4 can handle about 300w per channel (incadescent lights only!) so you could safefly put two 100w bulbs on each of three channels (one bulb for each side).  Of course, the Prop-2 has lots of IO and can control about 200mA (at 12v) per output with multiple outputs operating; keep this in mind should you choose LEDs.

[Patrick]

Thanks for the clarification.  In playing with 250W incandescents, the heating and cooling of the filament do not provide the best strobe effect at the speeds I need near the end of the program as I need total off/total on.  Waffling time is over.  I will be going with LED's, the spotlights I am building will use 24 - 360,000mcd LED's which combined will draw about 1A.  Since the prop-2 board can only control 200ma per output, I will definitely go RC4's!

Patrick

[JonnyMac]

You will need a power supply and DC relay for the RC-4 if you want to switch LEDs.  What you could do is use a TIP120 as a switching buffer for your high current outputs.  I did this for my friend last Halloween so that the Prop-1 could control a 12v automotive headlight (incandescent).




Note that I'm showing one side of the switched circuit connected to V+ -- you'll need enough current to supply the array and the Prop-1/2, or use a separate supply and connect its ground to the GND terminal.

[Patrick]

Good info, thanks!  I ordered the parts for the circuit below and I have 12V 10A power supplies so I am good on current.  Order placed for the controller and accessories and I am reading the documentation now.  I have never programmed a line of code before, but I am going to give it a shot since that is the best way to learn.  I may come begging for help later!

Patrick

[JonnyMac]

Hints:

1.) Know what you want -- in total -- before you begin
2.) Build things one element at a time
3.) Test each element before moving on to the next
4.) Save your program in discrete steps (tested elements) so you can get back to working code if something breaks.

[Patrick]

Jon,

Your last post was good advice, I worked and tested each effect one at a time, it actually makes sense!.  I received my Prop-2 on Friday and spent all day today trying to program it.  I picked up ideas from other posts and I did read the Elements of PBASIC style (still need to read Stampworks), so I hope my code is readable and correctly formatted.  Don't snicker too much, this is my first program...ever!  It does what I now want it to do, but I would appreciate you taking a look at it when you have time and letting me how I can improve it.  No doubt it will be like comparing a TaTa Nano to a Ferrari!  I have matched the timing to my two LFE's (so the floor will vibrate, rather violently near the end), the LFE system has its own program on a SD card, so all I needed was to switch it on via relay versus needed another audio program.

Although I did buy the two RC4's bigrez recommended, the Crydom DC relays were insanely expensive for 8!   So, I decided to use some IDEC RU4S-C-D12 electromechanical relays (4DPDT, 6A).  I will have 6 pairs of lights on either side of the elevator, stacked vertically.  The left and right top lights are hooked to one relay, the middle left and right to another relay and so on.

For audio, I happened to have some Cowlacious CARP 200 and 300's.  The 300 has pins for Play and FWD.  The FWD function plays the next track, so I can switch from "muzak" to "frightzak" by toggling the trigger on the CARP.  I have ordered a uMP3 for a different project since I want to work more with the SEROUT command with audio.  The Cowlacious has its SPI interface, seems a little more complicated then the uPMP3, vMusic2 or AP-8 interface.  Looking out for the AP-16's!

For wiring, I used

p2.out0 - White overhead light
p2.out1 - Red overhead light
p2.out2 - Side light, top relay
p2.out3 - Side light, middle relay
p2.out4 - Side light, bottom relay
p2.out5 - LFE relay
p2.out6 - CARP 300 play
p2.out7 - CARP 300 FWD
p2.out8 - out13 - Floor indicator lights, 3rd, 2nd, 1st, lobby, basement, sub-basement

Last, please move this to the prop-2 forum.

Thanks!

Patrick

' =========================================================================
'
'   File...... Office_Elevator.bs2
'   Purpose... Elevator effect for office haunt
'   Author.... Patrick
'   E-mail....
'   Started... April 24, 2009
'   Updated...
'
'   {$STAMP BS2}
'   {$PBASIC 2.5}
'
' =========================================================================


' -----[ Program Description ]---------------------------------------------
'
' Overhead white light, muzak playing over speakers, awaiting tour group
' Door closes, white light goes out, red light goes on, muzak = frightzak
' Floor indicator goes from 3rd floor to sub basement, side lights flash
' After 30 seconds. all lights flash
' All lights out, frightzak still playing

' -----[ Revision History ]------------------------------------------------


' -----[ I/O Definitions ]-------------------------------------------------

WhtOverhead  VAR         OUT0            ' white overhead light
RedOverhead  VAR         OUT1            ' red overhead light
LFE          VAR         OUT5            ' LFE relay
CowlaciousP  VAR         OUT6            ' CARP 300 play switch
CowlaciousF  VAR         OUT7            ' CARP 300 fwd switch
FlrLight     VAR         OUTH            ' floor light indicators
SideLight    VAR         OUTL            ' side lights
DoorSwitch   VAR         IN14            ' NO dry contact switch


' -----[ Constants ]-------------------------------------------------------

IsOn         CON         1
IsOff        CON         0


' -----[ Variables ]-------------------------------------------------------

flIncr       VAR         Nib             ' for...next increment for floors
slIncr       VAR         Nib             ' for...next increment for sides
frIncr       VAR         Byte            ' for...next increment Frenetic
timer        VAR         Byte            ' trigger debouncing
lottery      VAR         Word            ' randomness


' -----[ Initialization ]--------------------------------------------------

Reset:
  OUTH = %00000000 : OUTL = %00000000    ' clear all outputs
  DIRH = %00111111 : DIRL = %11111111    ' set all outputs

  PAUSE 1000                             ' wait for CARP to initialize


' -----[ Program Code ]----------------------------------------------------

Main:
  timer = 0                              ' timer reset
  WhtOverhead = IsOn                     ' turn on white overhead
  CowlaciousP = IsOn                     ' toggle muzak loop

Check_DoorSwitch:
  PAUSE 5                                ' loop pad
  timer = timer + 5 * DoorSwitch         ' update timer
  IF timer < 100 THEN Check_DoorSwitch   ' wait for 0.1 sec input

  GOSUB Going_Down                       ' door closed, start ride
  GOSUB Frenetic                         ' crazy lights

  END


' -----[ Subroutines ]-----------------------------------------------------

Going_Down:
  LFE = IsOn                             ' start LFE program
  CowlaciousF = IsOn                     ' toggle frightzak
  WhtOverhead = IsOff                    ' kill white overhead
  RedOverhead = IsOn                     ' red overhead on
  READ (Floor + flIncr), FlrLight        ' 3rd floor light on
  DO WHILE flIncr < 5                    ' start loop for light efx
    flIncr = flIncr + 1                  ' increment floor counter
      FOR slIncr = 0 TO 2                ' start side light sub loop
        READ (Side + slIncr), SideLight  ' change side lights
        PAUSE 2000
      NEXT
        READ (Floor + flIncr), FlrLight  ' change floor indicator
  LOOP
  PAUSE 1000
  RETURN


' -------------------------------------------------------------------------

Frenetic:
  FOR frIncr = 1 TO 125
    RANDOM lottery                       ' stir random value
    FlrLight = lottery & %00111111       ' random floor lights
    SideLight = lottery & %00011111      ' random side lights, r/w light
    OUTH = FlrLight                      ' rapid flash floor lights
    OUTL = SideLight                     ' rapid flash side. r/w lights
    PAUSE 100
  NEXT
  OUTH = %00000000 : OUTL = %00000000    ' kill all lights, leave audio on
  RETURN


' -----[ User Data ]-------------------------------------------------------

Floor DATA %00000001, %00000010, %00000100, %00001000, %00010000, %00100000
Side  DATA %00000110, %00001010, %00010010