My RC-4 connection method

[LPFreak1283]

Maybe this will help someone!  I have been using this tried and tested method of easily connecting items to the RC-4 board.

Click on thumbnails to make them larger.

In the first picture, I have my setup.  On the left is my RC-4 with labels on the SSR's.  Notice one of my quick connects is missing...use stranded wire to make your connections, it broke off because I used 12-2 house wire at first and that was a mistake!  I use lamp wire.  Next to the RC-4 is all my wiring going into the splitter box in the middle.  The bottom curls are the hot wires from the main cord and the top curls are the connections to the outlet.  On the right is one of my two modular boxes.  It has a 10 foot cord connected to an outlet so I just run the cable to where ever I need it.  Hanging from the bottom of the splitter box is the main power cord for the outlets that plugs into the wall.


Here is the "neutral" side of the splitter plug.  Notice that the tab is cut between the two terminals.  This will make both terminals separate from each other.  Also, notice the white wire that is connected to the ground terminal.  This will make the ground holes in the outlet supply the neutral line.  On the left (top) terminal is the hot wire for K1.  The other terminal is the hot wire for K3.


The right (bottom) terminal on this side is the hot wire for  K4 and the left (top) terminal is the hot wire for K2.  Notice again that the tab is cut rendering these terminals separate from each other.


Here is a shot of all the wires.  The wire nut is combining all the "hot" wires going to the RC-4.  So I cut the end of the main power cord to the wall and combined 4 other wires and stuck a large wire nut on them.  Then I ran those wires to RC-4 ports.  I put them all in the same hole on each relay.  I then send 4 wires back into the box and those connect to the 4 terminals on the outlet.


Here is a shot of the modular outlet taken out.  Notice the white wire and black wire both on the "hot" side of the outlet.  Also notice that the tab has been cut off between the two terminals.  This will break the "hot" side of the plug into two separate outlets. 


Here is the neutral side of the outlet.  Notice the ground wire connected to the neutral side.  The tab is not broken meaning that the neutral side of the plug works as expected for both outlets.  Since the ground wire was actually connected to the white wire from the wall, this is correct to hook this up to this side of the outlet.


This means that I can plug in my electronics into either plug and they will work as expected as long as the associated relay is activated.  I made the top plug K1 or K3 depending on which outlet you choose on the splitter box.  The bottom plug is K2 or K4.  The top of the splitter box outlet is laid out like so: Neutral (larger) hole is K1, Hot (smaller) hole is K2 and ground hole is Neutral from wall.  The bottom outlet is: Neutral (larger) hole is K3, hot (smaller) hole is K4 and ground hole is still Neutral from wall.

Obviously I have to use a grounded plug to the modular outlets as the ground carries the neutral from the wall.  The two other prongs are both hot wires.  And then I connect the wires correctly to the modular outlet.  This is not a grounded electrical system at all so be extremely careful in wet locations.  I do not use this setup outside of an enclosed location that will (or should) never get wet.
I accept no responsibility for any fires, shortages or damage to your items from the use of this setup.   Build at your own risk!

That being said, I have used this setup for almost ten years and it hasn't failed me yet!